Wednesday, 25 November 2009
Surf's Picking Up!
Finally a week after no waves at all surf has started picking up. It was really amazing like somebody threw a coin in the wave making machine. Either there is nothing or full power! The waves run here without the influence of the tides - A surfer just has to check the swell forecast. Banzai Pipeline is not active yet up but the forecast is good for Thanksgiving on Thursday. At the moment Sunset beach is the prime spot for medium to big wave surfing. On Sunday I have seen so many snapped boards. At least 20 boards have been snapped in the afternoon I have been there. It was real madness outside!
Tomorrow the O'Neill contest at Sunset beach should be started. I'll be there to take a few nice pictures. The surf itself will be too big for me to surf. I would need a gun (extra long, small surfboard) and an extra insurance for these high waves.
On Thanksgiving there will be a big barbecue here in the Backpackers stay. We'll have of course turkey and a lot of other food. I have already a good supply of Corona and Caribbean rum and are already ready for the big party. I'm really curious how the Americans are able to party.